FOODIE-FRIENDLY JOHN BENTLEY’S 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City, 650/365-777, www.johnbentleys.com FISH DISH The longtime proprietor-chef is known for his tummy-pleasing creations, but summer calls for selecting from among the seafood offerings, particularly a light take on broiled salmon in which the fish is paired with sautéed spinach and basil and beet essences. Colorful and very satisfying. Or try the pan-seared sole that snuggles up to a vegetable mixture with lemony butter sauce. Another refreshing summer choice is peppercorn-crusted ahi on thick Japanese noodles with seaweed. VEGGIES STAR Given the sustainable, local mindset when it comes to produce, one can get happily lost among the enticing starters here. A summer highlight of the menu is grilled watermelon with ample amounts of Dungeness crab along with an avocado napoleon and crunchy jicama. The contrasting flavors and textures are delightful. Then there’s pickled golden beets and wild mushrooms with crispy goat cheese and corn-bell pepper coulis. Also great for summer is a starter of fresh mozzarella, bay shrimp and tomato in basil vinaigrette. GRAND FINALES It might be difficult to forgo John Bentley’s signature dessert—sticky toffee pudding cake with caramel gelato and chocolate sauce—but there are a couple of lighter choices for those with iron-willed self-control. Doing less damage is cranberry pear crisp with cinnamon gelato or a nice apple tart with chopped pecans that comes with sun-dried cherry ice cream. Or be virtuous with scoops of house-made seasonal sorbet. BAR FLY This hidden-away restaurant has a full bar and gets nods for its cocktail menu. There are ampedup versions of classics like martinis, sidecars, Moscow mule and other drinks, but a good summer choice is a refreshing mojito that adds elderflower liqueur to the usual rum, citrus and mint. Or sip a lovely raspberry martini that includes fresh pureed fruit. A memorable special concoction that sometimes shows up is a pear martini that includes poached fruit, lychee and balsamic reduction. IMPRESSIONS John Bentley’s has long been a hangout for business folks, families celebrating special occasions, couples looking for a comfortable, friendly setting and locals who just plain enjoy the place. Inside, the ambience is warm and cozy, with the knowledgeable staff making sure to spread the love without pretentions among a guest population reflecting a wide mix of ages. SUBLIME SOPHISTICATION MADERA 2825 Sand Hill Road, Menlo Park, 650/561-1540, www.maderasandhill.com FISH DISH This prime VC hangout in the posh Rosewood Resort helps keep patrons lean and happy via some terrific summer seafood entrees, most notably airy cod and rock shrimp paired with chickpeas, cucumber, potato and charred eggplant with yogurt to tie it all together. Or dive into the chef’s yummy Alaskan king salmon with cauliflower, pistachio, chanterelle mushrooms, apricot and green coriander (featured on the cover.) A nice addition to the light summer seafood choices are great summer sides like crispy baby fava beans with pecorino and wilted chard with garlic confit. VEGGIES STAR Pre-entrée choices at Madera show off a cavalcade of fresh produce. Guests love the colorful, tasty beet salad accompanied by citrus and fromage blanc, a snowy, light, soft cheese and pistachio vinaigrette dressing. Or sugar-snap pea soup with whipped yogurt and mint. Or seared scallops and asparagus with bacon, green strawberries and nettles. Don’t miss the shellfish and raw fish choices, which are amped up with a range of compatible summer ingredients. GRAND FINALES Pastry chef Mellisa Root has major buzz in the food world, and it’s easy to see why in her intoxicating summer desserts. Try her mind-bending lilikoi cheesecake with strawberry habañero sorbet. Gorgeous to look at, it expertly combines creamy sweetness with the exotic tang of the fruits and a slight chile zing. Or go directly to her dark chocolate and anise seed mousse, which she pairs with crunchy praline, puffed grains and ginger beer citron sorbet. BAR FLY The lounge at Madera is a swanky watering hole for power players and well-dressed cougars, who can sip such summer treats as a delightful Asian pear cocktail or an inspired house version of a Manhattan, featuring vanilla and citrus-infused top-shelf rye whiskey with a brandied cherry. Head for the lovely patio with your drink on beautiful summer days. IMPRESSIONS Located in the midst of the greatest concentration of venture capital firms in the world, Madera dishes up the kind of environment one would expect for the Mercedes crowd. The spacious, tall-ceiled dining room and outdoor deck deliver an elegant but comfy ambience and gorgeous August/September 2014 91 views across a vast expanse of rolling hills and trees. n JOHN BENTLEY'S Pan-seared local sole, vegetable mélange, lemon caper beurre blanc MADERA Alaskan king salmon, cauliflower, pistachio, chanterelle mushrooms, apricot, green coriander
South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2014
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