December 2015/January 2016 93 realms via lemon and sweet, barely cured Sicilian olives. The chef hits it way out of the park with another starter of roasted baby beets unconventionally paired with pickled, seared and raw stone fruit punctuated by lush tahini vinaigrette and a whisper of tarragon. Or the surprising combo of flavorful matsutake mushrooms, roasted yam and peanut crumble. Breneman is skilled at contrasting tastes and textures while increasing deliciousness. As with the starters, the entree list is short but delectable. The priciest dish (at $48) can easily serve two—if one can fend off demands for bites from others—and has to be one of the finest cow choices in the region. A huge, juicy, milk-fed veal t-bone is seared just right, with a lemony piccata sauce adding complexity to the lush meat. Half a chicken is a frequently appearing item—a divine bird from a local coastal farm—cooked sous vide so it's incredibly moist. The chef rotates the accompaniments to keep things interesting. Fish is done with care, like snowy Alaskan halibut roasted in paper or frito misto (Italian batter-fried whatever) of local squid with padron peppers, French beans and baby fennel featuring one of the airiest, non-greasy coatings ever. Other seafood like salmon, albacore and scallops have shown up and been elevated through Breneman’s skill. Like the rest of the menu, the Lilliputian pair of dessert offerings changes constantly but rest assured they will be yummy and unconventional. No crème brulée here. Recently, a dark chocolate and fresh fig galette with fig sorbet and aged balsamic was absolutely spectacular. Mellow servers gamely try to keep up with the throngs of guests but this is the wrong place to expect pampering or quiet romantic interludes. Happily, the ownership of the Lex—including gifted chef Breneman—will be opening a new spot in Willow Glen deploying the same winning formula, giving South Bay residents even more places to dine à la 2016. LEXINGTON HOUSE, 40 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos, 408/354-1600; www.thelexlg.com HOURS: Monday–Thursday, 5:30–10p.m.; Friday– Saturday, 5–10:30p.m. Reservations only for parties of six or more. PRICES: Starters: $13–18; entrees: $17–$48; desserts: $12. n
South Bay Accent - Dec 2015/Jan 2016
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