LV MAR 2042 Broadway St., Redwood City, 650/241-3111, www.lvmar.com COOLING HEAT Hot-climate countries like Mexico have long since discovered the positive effects of a bit of fiery spice on warm days. As its name implies, this newish spot from well-regarded chef Manuel Martinez has many seafood choices that can have a touch of chile in the right places. His experience cooking in upscale restaurants shows in sophisticated, beautifully presented entrees like fat day-boat scallops with wild mushrooms and lobster tomato sauce or an innovative treatment of halibut in which the mild fish is crusted with pumpkin seeds and lapped with a chile emulsion that has just enough scorch. And don’t miss a seafood extravaganza that combines lobster, scallop and halibut with mushroom-like huitlacoche and Mexican herb sauce. ENTICING CHOICES Given the chef’s skill at balancing sweet, salty and spicy flavors with high-quality ingredients, the ceviche choices here should definitely be tried on a hot summer evening. Like raw ahi tuna tossed with jicama, cucumber, tomato, lime and a dab of serrano chile. Then LV MAR Pumpkin seed crusted there’s lime-cured white shrimp ceviche blended with sweet potato and a sweetish chile sauce. If you can’t make up your mind, go with the mixed ceviche that presents octopus, scallops and sea bass touched with orange and chile. OTHER OFFERINGS Among starters, try the almost-raw Cocas de Atun, which is slices of seared ahi in a chile sauce with field greens and pickled vegetables with coconut tuiles. Salads here are extra-special and show off seasonal ingredients, like mixed baby greens paired with toy-box beets, baby carrots, meyer lemon, coffee and cucumber puree. Refreshing! Or sample a summer salad of mixed berries, greens, jicama and candied walnuts in honey vinaigrette. GRAND FINALES It’s easy to ignore the heat with dessert offerings like cornmeal shortcake with mixed berries and horchata (a blend of nuts and seeds) ice cream accented by mint syrup. Or try the cooling hibiscus granita that comes with a vanilla and coconut cookie. Then there’s thyme-touched custard with sangria-flavored accompaniment and lime cream. IMPRESSIONS LV Mar isn’t the right destination for those just seeking the usual heaps of guac, beans and rice. The food is sophisticated and the decor is modern-minimalist, with white tablecloths and chrome/glass lighting. Even though Redwood City is known for its taquerias, this restaurant definitely takes Mexican food to a higher plane. 86 South Bay Accent HOT SPOT FLAVORFUL FUSION halibut, corn truffle potato TAMARINE 546 University Ave., Palo Alto, 650/325-8500, www.tamarinerestaurant.com purée, chayote squash, Guajillo chile emulsion FUSION MAINS This lovely, always-busy Vietnamese fusion joint has long cornered the market for business diners who don’t mind paying a lot for fresh, pretty, very tasty cuisine. Vietnam certainly has its share of hot weather, but the antidote there seems to be lighter food rather than searing spices. Thus, good summer entree choices include lemongrass seabass, which comes with cold mango and glass noodle salad; and Long-Life Salmon, which pairs steamed fish with soy-tamarind sauce and spinach. Beef isn’t usually on the summer wish list, but Tamarine’s famous Shaking Beef comes with a refreshing salad, while the meat is tender and lean. STANDOUT STARTERS The vegetable-focused cuisine that is Vietnamese food is ideal for warm days. Tuck into a tasty tuna tartare in which chunks of raw Hawaiian Big Eye tuna are tossed with coconut milk, ginger and a little chile, served with crisp wonton chips. Or try an airy crostini topped with crushed peas, mint and house-made ricotta. Vietnamese spring rolls are famously light, such as Tamarine’s version, featuring rice paper filled with shrimp, pork, herbs and sprouts. SALADS GALORE Traditionalists should order the classic green papaya salad, which comes with basil and dried shredded beef. Trendier diners will like the healthful edamame and kale salad, which adds pine nuts and kabocha squash tossed with miso-tahini dressing. Or shaved Brussels sprouts salad that mixes the leaves with apple, toasted walnuts and feta cheese. BAR FLY The professional crowd that fills Tamarine during lunch and dinner also flocks there for afterwork libations, thus the bar delivers an enticing cocktail menu that sometimes has an Asian fusion bent. Some perfect summer blends are the Garden Cooler, with lime-flavored gin, fresh lime, cucumber, basil and club soda, or the Anti-oxidant Mojito, which blends dark rum, various summer berries, lime juice and club soda. IMPRESSIONS While Tamarine is reasonably large, it’s so popular that reservations are a must. The least popular seats are at the noisy communal tables next to the bar, so avoid those unless you’re keen to hear about your neighbor’s hernia operation. The comfy booths against the wall are prime seating and worth requesting. Some diners also like the window tables that provide a view of the main drag. TAMARINE Lemongrass and garlic sea bass served with a cold mango and cilantro glass noodle salad
South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2014
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