August/September 2014 87 TASTE OF GREECE DIO DEKA 210 E. Main St., Los Gatos, 408/354-7700, www.diodeka.com SUMMER MAINS Greece’s Mediterranean climate and plentiful seas have produced a healthy cuisine that is great for warm summer nights. This popular, expansive restaurant does the cuisine proud, marrying Greek recipes with good ingredients. While lamb is synonymous with Greek food—and the lamb chops here are to die for—there are plenty of lovely seafood entrees to consider. Like meltingly tender black cod in a smoky broth with earthy mushrooms and charred favas. And grilled branzino or grilled dorade that arrive in all their moist, succulent goodness. And seared scallops with celery root purée. STANDOUT STARTERS There’s the usual Greek assortment of marinated olives, stuffed grape leaves and the like, naturally. But another classic appetizer, grilled octopus, is irresistible here, with the smoky, tender meat accompanied by a creamy red pepper-nut-garlic sauce perked up with grated hazelnuts. Or dive into the set of delicious spreads with pita bread, such as roasted red pepper and cheese spread or a yogurt-cucumber mélange. An appetizer medley is a good choice for the undecided. CHEF RECOMMENDATIONS Not always available but talked up on the menu are a few alluring dishes off the beaten Greek path. Try gigantes beans in a garlicky, smoky sauce or roasted, shaved sunchokes with the tangy accompaniment of goat cheese and sorrel with smoked roe and nettles. Then there’s an interesting take on smoked salmon, cured in resin and dill with asparagus, seared manouri cheese and radishes. GRAND FINALES While baklava seems a tad heavy on a hot summer evening, Dio Deka has some cooling choices on the dessert menu. The most interesting is galaktoboureko, in which a textured custard, not too sweet, is lightly wrapped in dough and served with yummy roasted strawberry ice cream. Or get really light via Greek yogurt and fresh fruit served with imported honey and a pistachio tuille. IMPRESSIONS This vast restaurant in the posh Hotel Los Gatos might have had some chef rotations, but this hasn’t daunted the crowds, who seem to revel in ear-splitting decibel levels. Those seeking romance or a less noisy dining experience can find no better summer seat than on the quiet back patio. DIO DEKA Double-cut, Mesquite-grilled lamb chops, lemon-oregano crusted potatoes
South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2014
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