October/November 2018 99
cious pairing for meat eaters. The souvlaki
gets a hefty squeeze of lemon and
dusting of mustard seeds before serving.
An expertly tossed and dressed salad is
lavish and wonderful with its sprinkling
of fresh herbs and toasted pistachios, with
a semi-hidden surprise: a thick puddle of
flavorsome cheese spread.
That Greek mainstay, lamb chops,
sometimes show up as an entree or a small
plate. The juicy, seared chops are from
sustainably raised California lamb and
come with a revolving list of veggies that
might be okra, eggplant or something
else. Guests’ only quibble is the sky-high
price for just a couple of diminutive chops
if ordered as an entree. On the seafood
end, pink California trout is tasty but a bit
overcooked and paired with mussel pilaf
and vegetables of the season. An upscale
cheeseburger here is formed from highend
beef topped with kasseri and fries on
the side, while the small game hen is juicy
and enjoyable.
Taverna’s best dessert combines warm,
flaky leaves of phyllo with a custardy
cream and pistachio ice cream. The texture
and temperature contrasts make this
a home run. Other choices: try tangy
panna cotta or a dense chocolate olive oil
cake with ice cream.
The pleasing, well-executed menu and
attentive service are no surprise given the
backgrounds of the principal players,
owners Thanasis Pashalidis and Hakan
Bala, who keep the floor running nicely,
and chef William Roberts. The trio honed
their skills at the region’s top Greek restaurants—
Evvia, Dio Deka and Kokkari—
while also working at respected Bay Area
dining spots, such as Village Pub, Michael
Mina and Mayfield Bakery and Cafe.
The only frustration for some Taverna
guests is the deafening noise level, in
which sign language is required to easily
communicate with tablemates. So just
take another bite of grilled octopus, toast
your friends with a glass of aromatic Assyrtiko
and drink up the Greek island
atmosphere silently with a smile.
TAVERNA, 800 Emerson St., Palo Alto; (650)
304-3840; tavernarestaurant.squarespace.com.
HOURS: 5–10, Monday–Saturday. Reservations
strongly recommended.
PRICES: Bites & small plates: $3–19; entrees:
$19–54; desserts: $10–12. n
1480 East Main Ave., Morgan Hill 408.779.2145 guglielmowinery.com
