and touch the bottom of
the pan to the wet towel
to cool it slightly and
prevent further cooking.
Once the bubbles subside,
whisk in the olive
paste, a little at a time.
The hot mixture may
spatter when you add
the olive paste.
For Chocolate
Madeleines
Multiply the finished
weight of the batter by
5 percent, and measure
out this quantity of
chocolate (ingredients
follow). Fold the chocolate
and pinch of salt
into the batter until it is
completely mixed. Put
the batter into a plastic
pastry bag and refrigerate
until firm.
Chocolate
Approx. 1½ ounces
72 percent dark chocoand
Madeleines for a
Signature Celebration
Bundle up a few with a pretty bow and
give them as a gift or display them
December 2018/January 2019 69
on a holiday table.
brown butter to
room temperature. If
these ingredients are not
at the same temperature,
the batter will break.
Combine the almond
meal, confectioners’
sugar and pastry flour in
a mixer bowl and mix
with the paddle attachment
for a few minutes.
Add the egg whites and
mix to combine. With
the mixer on high speed,
slowly add the brown
butter, a little at a time,
to create an emulsion.
Mix until batter is a
solid straw color without
any unincorporated egg
whites. Weigh the batter.
For Black Olive
Madeleines
Multiply the finished
weight of the batter by
15 percent, and measure
out this quantity of
Black Olive Caramel
(ingredients follow).
Fold the caramel into
the batter until it is
completely mixed. Put
the batter into a plastic
pastry bag and refrigerate
until firm.
Black Olive Caramel
8 to 16 ounce jar of
black olive paste
Sugar
Water
Drain the olive paste
Chef David Kinch’s
creativity and level of
success have been built
on many memorable
dishes at Manresa, like
his famous “Into the
Vegetable Garden,” a
custard topped with vegetable
veloute and 35 to
40 picked leaves, flowers
and herbs from the restaurant’s
gardens, or the
equally renowned “Winter
Tidal Pool,” an umamirich
bowl of seafood,
pickled kelp and other
earthy delights. One of
many signature treats is
his luscious little madeleines,
savory and sweet,
served to start and end
a meal.
Manresa Madeleines
(Black Olive or
Chocolate)
Makes 100 pieces
Special equipment:
Nonstick metal madeleine
molds with small
cavities, plastic pastry
bag
Madeleine Batter
1 cup strained unsalted
brown butter
6 or 7 strained egg
whites
1 cup fine almond meal,
sifted
1¾ cup confectioners’
sugar, sifted
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon
pastry flour,
sifted
Bring the egg whites
in a strainer to remove
the excess oil and weigh
the drained paste. Put an
identical weight of sugar
in a spotlessly clean
heavy saucepan and add
just enough water to the
sugar to create the consistency
of wet sand. Stir
briefly with a very clean
utensil to loosen the
sugar. Cover the pan and
cook over medium-high
heat, leaving the pan
covered to prevent crystallization,
at least until
the mixture liquefies.
Do not stir and ensure
that the temperature of
the mixture rises constantly
without dropping.
Dampen a folded
kitchen towel and place
it on a counter near the
stove. When the sugar
caramelizes and turns a
medium amber color,
remove from the heat
late, melted
Pinch of salt
Baking
Preheat the oven
to 400 degrees. With
a pastry brush, coat
madeleine molds with
softened butter and
dust lightly with flour.
Pipe the cold batter into
the molds, filling them
about three-quarters full.
Place the filled molds
on a sheet pan or cookie
sheet and bake for two
minutes. Rotate the pan
and bake for another
two minutes, or until
the madeleines are semifirm.
Remove the pan,
turn the madeleines out
onto the sheet pan with
the molded side up, and
allow them to cool.
Note: The madeleine
batter will hold for three
to four days in the refrigerator
if well covered.
Chocolate
madeleines
with strawberry
pâte de fruit.
CHRIS SCHMAUCH (2)