Impeccable
Dining in
Palo Alto
84 South Bay Accent
REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y
Damning a serious restau-
rant as “too expensive” is
as common as breadsticks
at Olive Garden—whose
prices seem to be what
such self-appointed critics somehow expect
for cutting-edge cuisine. Savvier diners
understand that meals at such exalted food
temples with their precious ingredients
and squads of culinary school grads aren’t
about full tummies but rather deliver-
ing a unique experience, which doesn’t
come cheap. The South Bay has recently
acquired one of these rarified dining spots,
modeled on Napa Valley’s Michelin threestar
French Laundry, no less.
Protégé in South Palo Alto opened last
March and does an excellent job dialing
down the $325-per-person
French Laundry experience to a
more approachable level. Present
are the efficient, attentive but
never intrusive service, understated,
modern environment, wowfactor
wine list, internet-only
reservations (plan well ahead)
and impeccable food. Unlike
the Laundry, however, Protégé
has a full bar and lounge serving
a meticulously crafted à la carte
menu. On the dining room side,
four courses go for $120, having
climbed along with the stock
market from the original $85.
Why emulate the Laundry?
Besides its widely acknowledged
excellence, this world-renowned
restaurant was the earlier employer
of Protégé’s two partners,
chef Anthony Secviar and Dennis
Kelly, one of just 273 people
worldwide achieving the Master
Sommelier title. The pair seems
to have succeeded, with the most
common adjective of Protégé guests being
“amazing,” even if many of them have defaulted
to the 40-seat lounge after failing
to secure a spot in the 20-seat dining room.
People are usually lined up before opening
to snag one of the 10 no-reservations seats
at the bar with good reason; Protégé earned
a Michelin star in November of 2018.
The lounge is quite a restaurant in its
own right. The menu starts with “snacks,”
which are a couple of bites each of remarkable
creations like a playful “fish and chips”
composed of luscious Hawaiian kampachi
crudo with citrus and chile on a crisp cracker.
Lush, gold-dusted hushpuppies are filled
with cheese and sometimes ham with creamy
dressing on the side. A few guests have
groused about no complimentary bread,
T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s
JIM SULLIVAN
Protégé is French Laundry
South but less costly.