August/September 2018 95
NADIA ANDREINI | DILUNA; OPPOSITE: CHRIS SCHMAUCH
encourages lingering. 1041 Middlefield Road, Redwood City; www.
donatoenoteca.com
• Pizza Antica
Not all restaurant groups are created equal, and one of the best
when it comes to food quality is Bacchus Management, whose
stable includes stars like Spruce in San Francisco and Woodside’s
Village Pub. So naturally, the group’s take on pizza—as seen in
the four Pizza Antica locations in the Bay Area—is excellent.
While the wood-oven-baked pies get attention, Pizza Antica offers
fine, house-made pasta, too. Gnocchi is a potato-based pasta/
dumpling that can be gluey or, in this case, fluffy and tender,
with two tasty sauces: pesto and sun-dried tomato. Squid ink
linguine lends its ocean brine to a light, lovely pairing featuring
tuna ragu, chile and basil. The thick tubes in a hardy manicotti
dish give bite to spinach and chicken with a winey béchamel
sauce. Offerings change, so hope that late summer brings back
the luscious dish called corn mezzalune featuring creamy, cornfilled
halfmoons in complementary sauce. 334 Santana Row, San
Jose; www.pizzaantica.com
One of the world’s most addictive carbs is pasta,
from the dried, boiled spaghetti with red sauce from
a jar that busy moms serve their hungry kids to
exquisitely handmade noodles enveloped by madefrom
scratch sauce in fine restaurants.
Donato Enoteca
RAVIOLI DI GAMBERI Wild prawns
filled ravioli with medley of cherry
tomatoes, chives and shrimp bisque
