tagliolini in which the skinny noodles in spicy tomato sauce with
roasted garlic are crowned with generous amounts of scallops and
clams. A simple, delightful alternative is pasta squares wrapped
into little tubes called garganelli that hold onto colorful pieces
of broccoli rabe, Italian chiles and generous shavings of pecorino
Sardo. Value in terms of price and portions is another bonus. 160
Castro St., Mountain View, and 10088 N. Wolfe Road, Cupertino; www.
dzpizzeria.com
• Il Fornaio
Around for several decades, this Italian chain now has about two
dozen locations in five states, but its long-term success was earned
by careful adherence to solid cooking. Il Fornaio has never lost
sight of its Italian-ness, featuring regional Italian menus that take
visitors across this food-centric country on a regular basis, in addition
to its regular offerings. Most of the pasta is made in house
and can be ordered in half or full sizes (a great idea) and comes
with calorie counts (maybe not such a great idea). A longtime
signature pasta features linguine in spicy tomato sauce packed
with prawns, scallops, clams and mussels. Other showstoppers
include wonderfully sweet dumplings called cappellacci, filled
with butternut squash and tossed with roasted walnuts, brown
butter and fried sage leaves, along with Bolognese with tagliatelle,
spaghetti with meatballs in tomato sauce with mushrooms, and
other classic pastas to please any carb lover. Locations in San Jose,
Santa Clara, Palo Alto and Burlingame; www.ilfornaio.com n
August/September 2018 97
• Centonove
The petite size of this popular cafe precludes making every pasta
in house, but those that are produced onsite like the pappardelle,
gnocchi and ravioli are delicious and well-priced. The house ravs
wrap spinach pasta around mushrooms and cheese, then they’re
covered in herb-rich pesto sauce. The gnocchi is memorable,
featuring separate beet- and spinach-infused cushions in a creamy
leek sauce topped with threads of prosciutto. Perfectly prepared
pappardelle is a delicious foil to a flavorful Bolognese, while the
other offerings utilize high-quality pasta. There’s al dente linguine
tossed with spicy marinara and piled with mussels, clams, shrimp
and scallops, or palate-pleasing penne with wild boar and wild
mushrooms. Guests also like the friendly service, divine pizza
and memorable tiramisu. 109 W. Main St., Los Gatos; www.cento
novelosgatos.com
• Doppio Zero
Doing food the true Italian way is the mantra of this little chain,
whose wood-fired pizza was certified in Naples for quality of
ingredients and execution. Naturally, the pasta is made in-house
and also adheres to high standards. In fact, the restaurant was
named for the “double zero” Italian flour used in top pizzas and
pastas. Try the fettucine wrapped around a terrific ragu made from
braised wild boar and sprinkled with flavorful, tangy pecorino
Sardo cheese, or spinach ravioli filled with wild mushrooms and
ricotta in rich fondue truffle sauce. A house favorite is squid ink
Il Fornaio
CAPPELLACCI DI ZUCCA
Butternut squash pasta
filled with butternut
squash and walnuts
served with tomato sauce,
brown butter, Grana
Padano and crispy sage
PAUL KELLERHALS; OPPOSITE: KRISTEN LOKEN
