CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF DISHDASH; MANRESA BREAD
BY ALYSSA TWEKER; FREEKEH COURTESY PIC.; AVERY BY AUBRIE PICK.
“IN THE FOOD-CONSCIOUS BAY
AREA, WHOLE GRAINS ARE
NOW WEARING THE MANTLE OF
YESTERDAY’S GOOD-FOR-YOU
INGREDIENT, KALE.”
August/September 2019 83
sell their enticing products at South Bay farmers markets and
grow organic whole grains made from heirloom varieties on
their property. Wheat berries and whole wheat flour are available
online from Full Belly, whose whole wheat is also bought
by Community Grains, a Bay Area operation that uses locally
grown, “identity preserved” grain for a line of pastas and flours
that is available at many Whole Foods stores in the South Bay.
Another excellent source of locally grown wheat products
is Capay Mills, whose flours are available at some high-end
grocery stores in the region. Meanwhile, exacting bakeries like
Manresa Bread—now with locations in Campbell, Los Altos and
Los Gatos—take the “locally grown” concept so seriously that
head baker Avery Ruzicka sources grains locally and mills her
own flour on-site daily. Coke Farms is a provider of whole
grains to Manresa Bread. Proprietor Dale Coke reports his operation
has grown buckwheat, rye, teff and spelt as well as some
heirloom wheat varieties that are snatched up by high-end bakers
like Ruzicka.
The only trick with whole grains, say professional cooks like
Jesse Cool, is preparation knowledge. “Proper cooking is important,”
she advises. Their additional layers compared to refined
grains means longer cooking times, so patience is needed. Rinsing
grains won’t compromise texture or flavor but won’t improve
them, either. Different grains call for different cooking
times, thus initial research is wise. An easy approach is to cover
grains with a couple of inches of liquid and when done, if liquid
is still present, dump the cooked result into a strainer. Checking
doneness is a good move, looking for grains that feel slightly
chewy rather than crispy or crunchy.
When cooked, grains deliver abundant nutrition but the best
part for foodies is how delicious and satisfying they are, perking
up any breakfast, lunch or dinner with guilt-free flavor. n