What does it take to become a highly trained
wine expert? We asked some of South Bay’s top
sommeliers to share their experience—and while
at it, to also share a few popular pairing misconceptions,
preferred pours and popular trends.
Passionate Professionals
Much like a jazz musician, sommeliers seamlessly
serve up the soul of any meal, adjusting wine recommendations
according to any food pairing,
palate and pocketbook. As with any artist, sommeliers
hone their craft over many years. Passion,
dedication and discipline play crucial roles. Also,
stamina: to become a Master Sommelier (MS),
you will be tasting hundreds if not thousands of
different wines, just for openers.
Susan Marsh of Ladera Restaurant in Morgan
Hill is convinced that “to become a sommelier
you need knowledge, experience and humbleness:
knowledge so you can have a broad range of wines
to pull from when you are making a decision on
what to recommend to someone; experience so
you know how to work with all types of people;
and a humble disposition so that you can easily
put your personal preferences aside in order
to recommend something appropriate for your
guests palate and budget. I consider adaptability
to be essential.”
Mastery embraces some practical and some esoteric
domains. Dennis Kelly, MS of Protégé in Palo
Alto, outlines the three key areas in which a wellprepared
sommelier is wise to focus their training:
Christopher Miller, Seabold Cellars
“Honestly—while this is almost
sacrilegious for me to say—
I think the whole wine and
food pairing concentration is
overblown.” —CHRISTOPHER MILLER, Seabold Cellars
tasting, theory and service. “I studied wine theory
at least 15 minutes each night after my restaurant
shift for nine straight months to prepare for the
Master Sommelier examination,” Kelly explains.
“I also participated in a two-hour tasting group
weekly for several years with other sommeliers. I’ve worked in
dining rooms for decades refining my service skills, including
more than a decade at the French Laundry. Most importantly,
my Master Sommelier mentors all shared their knowledge with
me selflessly.”
“For me the only thing required to become an expert in wine
62 South Bay Accent
is dedication and commitment to devoting yourself to it,” asserts
Jim Rollston, MS of Manresa Restaurant in Los Gatos. “I firmly
believe that great tasters are not born with any particular gift, but
rather train themselves to understand what makes great wines
tick. And the same applies to learning about wine through study:
if one is dedicated to understanding wine, you will get there.”
All three experts agree that when it comes
to honing sommelier skills, there simply are
no shortcuts. Just as wine itself improves
with age, a somm’s education requires the
time and patience needed to absorb a vast
amount of information, both in the mind
and on the palate.
Andrew Green of the Village Pub in
Woodside says simply, “You have to understand
that there is no end point with your
studies. There is always a new vintage, new
region, new producer to learn about. So,
if you are honest with yourself about your
wine education, you have to own the fact
that it will be a lifetime of work.”
He suggests getting involved with organizations
that offer courses and provide
POURS AND P AIRINGS
“I’m excited by a new high-end CABERNET
SAUVIGNON producer from the NAPA VALLEY
called DAKOTA SHY.” —DENNIS KELLY, Protégé