Rebooted
Brewery
84 South Bay Accent
REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y
Rebirth is a popular theme
in books and films, and a
recently born-again restaurant
in downtown Palo Alto
has also been making diners
smile, particularly those picky about
their brews and ’cue. The former Gordon
Biersch brewpub that was launched in
1988 has now come full circle, reopening
last year after an interior renovation as Dan
Gordon’s. Its eponymous owner was the
gifted brewmaster half of the original team
and now wants his new brewery-restaurant
to buzz with an enticing 21st century vibe.
That means a farm-to-table approach in
the kitchen, serious smoked meats, extensive
whiskey selection, beer-inspired
cocktails, even more fresh beers on tap,
industrial chic decor and sports
playing on the giant TV screens.
This is a homecoming of sorts
for Dan Gordon, who sold the
restaurant side of his business
(which now numbers about 30
Gordon Biersch locations) in
1999 but kept the brewery in
accordance with a then newly
minted law prohibiting ownership
of both. Right after that
law was rescinded last year, he
plotted his return to the Palo
Alto spot.
With its focus on tasty microbrews,
Dan Gordon’s picked
contemporary barbecue as the
prime culinary mate, with slowsmoking
brisket, pork shoulder,
wings, turkey, ribs, sausages and
even prime rib (available on
weekends only). The brisket is
the star with its moist smokiness,
while the pull-apart pork,
garlicky sausages, juicy ribs and
delightfully tart chicken wings
(brined in pickle juice) are irresistible. Less
so the dry turkey breast. Various combo
plates are offered that come with salads
or sides, including the famous garlic fries
that Gordon perfected while studying
beer-making in Germany decades ago.
This is not an optimum dining choice
for dieters given the rib-sticking nature
of not just all those smoked meats but
the indulgent line-up of comfort food on
the menu. “Burnt ends” of the marvelous
brisket are strewn throughout a pile
of garlic fries, cheesy, creamy gravy and
pickled vegetables, with those same succulent
bits of meat sometimes showing
up in chili slathered with cheddar and
served with chips. Or try the fat, juicy
burger topped with a chunk of brisket,
T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s
SUE HUDELSON
Dan Gordon’s pours new
life into the original Gordon
Biersch location