February/March 2018 99
YAYOI
Another Japanese chain that’s come to American is this specialist
in teishoku, which is kind of a Japanese fast-casual place with
a set meal, sometimes served in a bento box. Teishoku dining
is based on the ichiju-issai (or “one soup, one side”) traditional
meals offered at Zen temples, which include a main, soup, rice
and pickles. It’s healthy and affordable. One of the twists at Yayoi
is the use of tablet computers to order and track your meal, which
is brought to the table but the price includes tip.
The restaurant is developing a fan club for dishes like tan
katsu, a panko-encrusted, fork-tender pork cutlet simmered in a
miso-based sauce; barbecued eel called hitsumabushi served over
noodles or rice with condiments and dashi sauce on the side;
and Japan’s answer to Southern-fried chicken, chicken katsu and
chicken karaage, with a pleasing, non-greasy, super-crispy crust.
There’s even serviceable raw fish, like salmon sashimi over rice
and salmon carpaccio with a drizzle of citrus-shoyu dressing. The
most expensive meal is the $24 Yayoi Gozen, which is an abundant
platter with salmon salad, pork cutlet, salmon teriyaki and
beef sukiyaki. 20682 HOMESTEAD ROAD, CUPERTINO, (408) 564-8852. 403
UNIVERSITY AVE., PALO ALTO, 650/494-4437; YAYOI-US.COM n
YAYOI
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YAYOI GOZEN
