96 South Bay Accent
EUGENE MARCHUK; OPPOSITE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF FUGETSU; CHRIS SCHMAUCH
SAKE 101
Savor a few fascinating
facts about
the quintessential
Japanese libation
Since Japanese cuisine is frequently
subtle, it can go nicely
with well-chosen wine, and beer
is also a popular accompaniment.
However, those seeking the full
Japanese experience should
order sake (sock-ay) to go with
their meal, and learning a few
basics about this surprisingly
complex beverage will help adventurous
diners savor its intricate
flavors. First off, sake is not
rice wine, as many diners believe
it to be. Rather, it’s fermented
from special rice varieties that
have first been milled to expose
the starchy core, then a special
enzyme, koji, is added that helps
convert starch to sugar while the
sugar is turned into alcohol. Typically,
the more the rice has been
polished, the higher quality is the
sake it produces, and it is best
consumed within a year of bottling
in most cases.
The word “sake” in Japanese
means “alcoholic drink,” so sake
lovers in Japan know to order
Nihonshu, which means the
“sake of Japan.” Alas, there is a
surprisingly large amount of domestic
sake in the United States,
but connoisseurs usually prefer
the Japanese version, particularly
some of the more highly
regarded kinds of sake. Keep in
mind that sake is a bit stronger
than wine at 17 to 20 percent
alcohol, which is why the usual
serving is around 4 ounces.
There are many kinds of sake,
but it’s worthwhile for neophytes
to keep just a few in mind. Junmai
means “pure rice” and indicates
that the sake was brewed
using just rice, water, yeast and
koji. Junmai sakes have a rich,
full body with an intense, slightly
acidic flavor. Within junmai sakes,
the junmai ginjo variety is the
most wine-like, which might appeal
to those new to sake. Honjozo
sakes also contain a small
amount of distilled brewer’s alcohol,
which is added to smooth out
the flavor and aroma of the sake.
Honjozo sakes are often light and
easy to drink.
A rough rule of thumb is that
higher-quality sakes are served
cool, but there’s such an array of
sakes available that the serving
temperature should be left to the
experts; often the sushi chef will
be most knowledgeable. Sake
aficionados prefer freshly opened
bottles to the ceramic carafes
of hot, cheap sake that is most
familiar to Westerners. Since understanding
sake can take some
work, the easiest strategy when
in a restaurant is to ask the staff
for recommendations and descriptions
of the sakes available.
They should know the best temperature
to serve the beverage
and which will be most compatible
with the chosen meal.
DAN IZAKAYA
•
KUBOTA HEKIJU JUNMAI D AIGINJO
“100 OSTENTATIOUS-NESSES”