GOCHI JAPANESE FUSION T APAS
SAWA SUSHI
•
SASHIMI
Even 12 years on, this unique, small establishment has oodles
of fans for its inventive, voluminous menu of Japanese-inspired
dishes in small portions, which encourages trying lots of them.
Booking ahead is essential, and patrons love the casual atmosphere
February/March 2018 95
MITSUNOBU
Those wishing to experience the stellar heights of Japanese
cooking should seek out one of the region’s kaiseki
establishments, particularly this serene, accommodating
restaurant in a shopping center on VC row in Menlo
Park. Mitsunobu (named for the owner/chef ) takes
a modern California approach to an exquisite multicourse
kaiseki meal but also has a multi-course omakase
(chef ’s choice) offering (both cost $125 and the latter
includes many sushi items), a sushi bar and a regular
menu, but the wise stick with the fixed-price selections.
And dreamy they are, with courses like Muscovy
duck breast cooked at low temperature in white sesame
oil, crisp-fried Japanese mackerel with plum salt and
surrounded by a light foam, and a white corn tofu
dish pumped up with tomato, sea urchin and caviar.
Each dish is beautifully presented and utterly delicious,
demonstrating the high art of Japanese cuisine. Advance
reservations are essential for both the kaiseki and
omakase choices, which should be treated like a special
experience, slowly savored. 325 SHARON PARK DR., MENLO
PARK, 65/ 234-1084; RMITSUNOBU.COM
SAWA SUSHI
For raw fish freaks (you know who you are), this postage
stamp of a restaurant in a strip mall is where you die and
go to heaven. Owner/fish maestro Steve Sawa is the soup
nazi (remember those “Seinfeld” episodes?) of sashimi
but patrons don’t care when presented with some of the
most unctuous, perfect fish this side of Tokyo. There’s
no menu, just an array of faultless courses invented and
prepared by Sawa, with prices beginning at $120 a head.
Creamy Hokkaido sea scallops, delicious toro ribbons—
the ingredients are majestic, particularly with
Sawa’s saucing expertise, seen in creations like yuzu
kosho topping rich kanpachi or a sweet-spicy tamarind
glaze on ocean trout. It’s all about freshness, balance and
harmony. Those foolish enough to ask for a California
roll or miso soup or inform the chef of their diet restrictions
might soon be out on the street. Those in the
know come to enjoy the dry, edgy banter from Sawa, who runs
what seems like a one-man show. Reservations are mandatory, of
course. Rumor has it that Sawa Sushi is the unofficial hangout of
Silicon Valley elites, where CEOs plan the future while consuming
rich, moist shreds of hamachi kama. 1042 E. EL CAMINO REAL,
SUNNYVALE, 408/ 241-7292; SAWASUSHI.NET
JIN SHO HA S A SIZEABLE OFFERING OF SUSHI AND S ASHIMI
CHOICES AND S OME POPULAR R OLLS LIKE UBER-POPULAR
VOLCANO ROLL WITH S ALMON IN SPIC Y MAYO WRAPPED
AROUND SPICY, CRUNCHY TUNA.
