POINT
REYES
SEALS
June/July 2018 87
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF MARIN CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU; COURTESY OF GUAYMAS; OPPOSITE: HITCHSTER/FLICKR
small strand of sand is often shrouded in fog, with summer
temps that dip several dozen degrees below South Bay averages,
so come prepared with plenty of layers to spare. From
Muir Beach, the well-marked Coastal Fire Road and Pirate’s
Cove trailheads beckon wanderers to hike along the rugged
coast. Both trails offer ample ocean-gazing opportunities,
but the Pirate’s Cove trail, climbing steeply through chaparral,
descends into the storied inlet where, legend has it,
Prohibition era bootleggers staged smuggling operations. At
high tide, the crashing waves may make the beach inaccessible,
so check before you start out. Once at the beach, there
are caves to explore, boulders to climb and mussel-covered
crags to peer into. A steady hiking pace will get you there and
back to Muir Beach in 90 minutes. After all that outdoorsy
exertion, a cozy fireside furlough should brighten the day.
Find a relaxing respite in the Pelican Inn (pelicaninn.com),
the oldest guesthouse in this part of California. Their restaurant
serves hearty English favorites like shepherd’s pie, fish
and chips and curry. To extend your escape, check into one of
the inn’s seven snug rooms, where authentic English antiques
and cozy décor complement the serene sylvan surroundings.
Stinson Beach
After being closed for almost a year due
to extensive storm damage spurred by record
rains, the five-mile stretch of Highway 1 snaking
north between Muir Beach and Stinson
Beach reopened last January. This is good news
for day-trippers in search of the quintessential
California coastal caper. You weave along the
cliffside highway, encountering winding vertigo
tempting bluffs on a roller coaster ride that
eventually reveals an awe-inspiring expanse of
sea and sand far below. Then you slowly descend
until you arrive at a quaint beach town that time
has gloriously forgotten. Stinson is a perfect spot
to rediscover the simple delights of sandcastle
building and splashing in the surf. There are also
kayaks and boogie boards to rent and breathtaking
trails to climb. Quiet and scarcely populated
during the week, this salt-worn haven’s crowds
swell like the high tide with weekend visitors.
Stinson delivers an eclectic mix of book and gift
stores and dining options that range from snack
bars to romantic restaurants, along with picnic
grounds. Grab a bowl of clam chowder or settle
in for fresh-from-the-sea cioppino at the Sand
Dollar (stinsonbeachrestaurant.com), an upscale
local favorite since 1921, then leg it back to the
beach for a sunset stroll.
Mount Tamalpais State Park
Directly to the east of Stinson is Mt. Tam,
Marin County’s signature summit, a 2,571-foot
pinnacle that is home to golden grasslands, oak
woodlands, iconic redwoods, chaparral, bobcats
and 60-plus miles of trails. While the Dipsea,
Matt Davis and Cataract Creek trails receive
more attention, the Verna Dunshee Loop delivers
the most variety and the easiest access. Thanks
MEXICAN
FARE AT
GUAYMAS
