90 South Bay Accent
MARK GUNN/FLICKR
STINSON BEACH IS A PERFECT SPOT TO REDISCOVER THE SIMPLE
DELIGHTS OF SANDCASTLE BUILDING AND
drive, with rolls of green hills patched with bundles of blackand
white cows, may awaken your artistic impulses, sopack the
portable easel and watercolors.
Tule Elk (white, not brown) are year-round residents, and in
late summer and early fall, bull elk start to call their harems together,
and you may even witness them sparring to secure their
territory. And you don’t have to be an elite athlete to enjoy the
wild environs; the miles of hiking trails include the three-quartermile,
wheelchair-accessible Earthquake Trail.
On moonless nights, pull up a front row seat to an aquatic
lightshow, courtesy of the sparkling phosphorescent trails of bluegreen
bioluminescence produced by tiny plankton. “The bursts of
radiance are a defense mechanism,” explains naturalist and former
State Park Interpreter Anica Williams. “Even the tiniest ripple can
trigger them to light up.” This means that a paddle can “paint”
the water with light, one stroke at a time, and fish fleeing seals
and feathered predators leave shimmering trails in the current.
Book a tour to see these nautical blooms of light at one of
several local outfitters that guide groups from spring through fall,
when the phosphorescence peaks and enthralls kayakers on Tomales
Bay. Blue Water Kayaking (bluewaterskayaking.com) and
Point Reyes Outdoors (pointreyesoutdoors.com) offer four-hour
nocturnal tours.
SPLASHING IN THE SURF.
Inverness & Environs: Stay and Play
Since this is the outer reaches of the county, about 100 miles
north of San Jose, an overnight stay may be on the agenda. Perched
above bay waters, accomodations are few but high quality and
offer secluded settings for those who seek solitude and serenity in
their shelter. In the pint-sized community of Inverness, Manka’s
Inverness Lodge (mankas.com), dates back to 1917, when it was
a hunting lodge; it has maintained the original rustic flair while
folding a bit of updated elegance into the mix. Manka’s dining
room serves locally sourced fare including lamb tenderloin, sockeye
salmon and halibut. Other standouts include the eco-styled
Dancing Coyote (dancingcoyotebeach.com), with its four charming
cottages, and the Mediterranean-style Pt. Reyes Vineyard Inn
(ptreyesvineyardinn.com), featuring spacious rooms, courtyard, koi
pond, air-massage tub, wetland and vineyard views, and its own
wine tasting room. The charming Inverness Library and Museum
features a welcoming garden with WiFi access, perfect for reading,
study or gathering.
And since you’ve come this far, you owe it to yourself to visit
Limantour Beach, half an hour away, teaming with marine life in
its adjacent estuary. Limantour is simply one of great California
beaches, provided you don’t want to plunge in for a swim. Instead,
indulge in the wild, untamed elements surrounding you on
